Start by putting on your best bra. Put the straps on your shoulders, bend at the waist, pull the bra under you breast and let your breasts fall into the cups before closing it. Then scoop your left breast with your right hand making sure that your breast is sitting on the wire and the band, your left hand should be holding your bra band in the meantime. Do the same on the other side.
Now, you are ready to check the following points:
It is the most important piece of the bra, the one that does most of the work (from 80-90%). It is also the biggest mistake we make. Instead of going up a cup size we usually go up a band size and end up having a bra that doesn’t support us. The band should be parallel to the floor and should sit firmly and confortably at the narrowest part of your upper back.
The wires should follow the curves of your body. The wire should sit behind the breast and not poke into your skin or hurt you.
The gore should lay flat against your sternum. If it doesn’t, either the cup is too small or you don’t have enough space between your breasts. In this last case try to find a bra with a low gore like a plunge bra.
The cup should contain all of the breast tissue. If the cup overspills then go up a cup size. If the cup wrinkles or gap then go down a cup size.
You should be able to slide one or two fingers under your straps easily. They shouldn’t dig into your shoulders. If they do, your band is not supportive enough, go down a band size.